Where earth meets heaven

The mountains in Badrinath have an awe-inspiring quality to them. The mountain air is cold and crisp. The most auspicious time to see the Lord of Badri is at 4:30 am. We all got up, showered, and were ready to leave our hotel by 4 am in the morning.

At the Badrinath temple

We were tightly packed into the tiny sanctum for over 3 hours to witness the magnificent "abhishek" (sacred ablution) of the lord. The chanting of the vedas was interspersed with stories from Srimad Bhagavatham extolling his glory and the loud clap of cymbals and drums. All of us were deeply inspired by the whole experience - those who grew in the Indian tradition and those to whom the entire ceremony was foreign. The power it carried was other worldly.

A late afternoon excursion to a sacred cave where sage Brighu meditated was notable. It is much easier to feel the sacredness of this remote mountain shrine when one steps a few hundred feet away from it. When one steps away from the crowds, and the noises, the snow-capped peaks, the bright blue water of Alaknanda, and the rugged mountain terrain all draw one into an inner stillness that is precious.

The mountains above Badrinath

When we visited the village of Mana the next day the experience was all the more amplified as we stood witness to many high snow clad peaks watching over this sacred cove in the lap of mother nature. What better place could there be for Vyasa to write the Mahabharata and all the great scriptures? We went to the cave very early in the morning to avoid the crowds and were duly rewarded with a profound serenity that enveloped the whole town.

Both on our way up and the way back from Badrinath we stopped at Joshimath - a town made famous and sanctified by Adi Shankara's penance. Our experience in this town on the way up was so deep that we made time to visit some of the meditation caves a second time and enjoy the deep stillness. Shankara's name, image, and living vibrations fill every sacred space here. Our meditations in the mountain caves here were some of the deepest in the trip.

At the temple in Joshimath

One of the evenings in Badrinath, we had the opportunity to have satsang with Swami Svarupananda Puri, a sadhu who lives in these mountains and enjoys greeting truth seekers. Of the many things he shared with us, one particular thought made a firm imprint on me, "At the very moment the feeling of dispassion arises in the heart, renounce everything. Don't wait or think."

On the way to and from Badrinath we stayed overnight at another high mountain resort, where we got the opportunity for early morning visits to the Ganges (to dip in the cold waters and meditate by banks). Experiences such as these are powerful in their simplicity and in being able to take us out of the preoccupations of our life, perhaps even making us nostalgic of a past life spent in pursuit of God.

We descended to Rishikesh, and our destination was an idyllic mountain resort/spiritual community an hour north of Rishikesh. It would be unfair to summarize our experiences here in just a few lines. However, since I shared quite a bit last year after my trip, it may suffice to say that our time here was one of healing and inward relaxation. Visits to the ancient meditation cave of Vashista Gufa and the blissful private beach on the Ganges that we had access to gave us an experience of India quite different from the busy pilgrimage sites or cities.

Dipping into Ganges followed by purification, Private beach near Anand lok

Living presence of the immortal Yogi

The blessings we have received on this trip are like no other I have experienced in any pilgrimage in my life. The presence of Babaji is strongly felt, guiding us every step of the way.

Pictures of the Gurus at a rural tea shop

When we stopped at a random tea stall in a remote village on our drive, we noticed the pictures of our Gurus gracing the wall. This is one of the many instances where the Gurus have given us a sign of their presence with us these past few days.

Mahavir serving tea

The resort where we spent three nights near Babaji's cave is very special too. It is not reachable via a proper road and is very secluded. And it is a mere 40-minute hike away from the cave, right below it. All that stay here are devotees visiting the cave. The staff was stellar. The manager was a girl from the nearby village who had a perpetual smile and the most serviceful attitude of anyone I have met.

Meditating outside babaji’s cave

On our first day we went as a group to the cave. We took turns meditating inside the cave. Following that we did a fire ceremony with sanskrit mantras outside the cave with ghee and rice. And then a purification ceremony where everyone got the opportunity offer a something into the fire to let go of.

Being a group entirely made of Kriya yogis, we also had a special prayer and an inward renewal of our commitment to our Kriya practice, followed by the "Babaji drink". This was the place Kriya was given for the first time in this age, and Babaji offered this prasad to Lahiri. So surreal for us to be present at the same spot and tasting the drink, knowing fully that Babaji has granted our wish!

Fire ceremony outside babaji’s cave

After a picnic lunch on the meadow where the golden palace was materialized, some us hiked further up the hill to the top of the Dunagiri mountain. This entire mountain (where the cave is) is incredibly sacred. It was sanctified by the pandavas during their exile, and on this mountain top they performed penance.

Pandav kholi (the mountain top) is unlike other sacred places. No crowds, no big temples here. Many many great yogis and sadhus have resided here in the recent times. One of them is Balwant giri maharaj (who Debi mukherjee met and mentions in shaped by saints). We visited his hut/cave and walked around this hallowed sod.

That evening was the first performance of a play that we had put together specially for this day and this location - a dramatization of the first meeting of Babaji with Lahiri, the Golden palace incident and the kriya initiation. It was titled “The Resurrection of Kriya yoga”. Shivendra played babaji, Jitendra played Lahiri and there were few other cast members. Swami’s music and chants were interwoven into different scenes. It was profoundly inspiring to relive these anciently familiar words and incidents. (The play was recorded on video and we will share it soon)

The following day we split into smaller groups. Many returned to the cave for longer meditations. Two groups also visited the powerful and sacred Durga temple called Dunagiri devi, very close to Babaji's cave. Almost everyone got to visit Babaji’s cave twice.

The visit to the temple was nothing short of spectacular. We were meant to and guided to visit this sacred place. Many locals believe that this temple is where Babaji and Lahiri met for the first time and the initiation happened in the cave on the other side. There is even a tree marking that meeting location.

Dunagiri Devi temple

Whether or not that is exactly what happened, it is undoubtedly a very powerful place and very closely connected to Babaji's cave. The pandav kholi peak and dunagiri temple are right across and can be clearly seen from each other. There is no idol here but simply two rocks that symbolize divine mother's limbs. It has been mentioned in scriptures from time immemorial. Many saints and yogis can be seen around this temple.

We in fact met one such yogi - Bhatkoti Baba. We approached his cave that is near the temple on top of the hill. A friend who was with us mentioned how the baba chased him away in the past without letting him sit in the cave. Now, he welcomed us. He was not warm enough to take questions, but allowed us to stay in his abode for 20 mins and shared lots of fascinating information about Babaji's cave. The baba had a picture of Babaji on his altar. This baba is a disciple of Balwant Giri, who lived in Pandav Kholi.

There were so many more encounters and blessings this day that I won’t get into detail here. Our hearts were filled with the presence of Babaji and his living presence guiding us.

Reading prayer requests to Babaji at the superconscious attunement ceremony

That evening we hosted a powerful superconscious attunement ceremony. This ceremony written by Swamiji is not often performed at Ananda. This was a particularly special moment to lead it. We all gathered along with the manager of the resort and our guide Mahavir, mentioning numerous prayer requests for the group to pray for. Each one was presented to Babaji with our sincere wish. His presence could be felt that evening and no doubt they were all received.

We left very early the next morning to travel towards Badrinath - an arduous bus journey crossing over to a different section of the himalayas. The bliss and ecstasy of our time in Babaji’s cave still lingers in our hearts.

The Journey Begins

"Home," in its essence, reflects a feeling and not as much a space. And for many of us devoted to this path, Ananda is home. Not one particular community or another but wherever this vibration has been firmly established and nurtured.

After a week in Kolkata, when we landed in Delhi and entered the Panchsheel ashram, it was this exact feeling of coming home. The ashram space is filled with the presence of Swamiji and long-time devotees. Our meditations at the ashram were deep.

An absolute treat (not originally planned) was Jyotish and Devi's visit to the ashram exactly on the day when we were scheduled to be there. On Saturday evening, when we came to the ashram for dinner, it was a spectacle to see the dozens and dozens of marigold garlands adorning the outside walls, doorways, and walkways. It was festive in the best way imaginable.

With jyotish and devi in Delhi

The Sunday Satsang with Jyotish and Devi was a celebration of Ananda's 20 years in India. The temple was filled, and other rooms were set up for devotees to watch the Satsang on a screen. We couldn't think of a better way to start the pilgrimage than with such an inspiring satsang. A delicious lunch followed.

Our orientation evening in Delhi was a ceremony of intention setting for the sacred trip. It was a profound event where we all came together and energetically bonded as one. Tears rolled down our eyes as we made a personal offering in front of Babaji and received a gift in return - that was his blessing to us.

A fulfilling shopping trip!

There were two busy days of shopping adventures that were incredibly fun and fulfilling.

On the auspicious day of Vijayadasami (or Bijoya or Dussehra), Oct 24th, we gathered very early in the morning before the sun's rays hit the horizon. Gathering outside our hotel, we invoked the presence of Ganesha to remove all obstacles on our way and boarded the bus. Thanks to microphones and speakers, our times in the bus are filled with joyous and enthusiastic chanting to God.

By late afternoon, we were greeted by Mahavir, a long-time friend of Ananda who has been helping Ananda devotees for decades and guiding their travels in this region. His presence with us is truly a blessing.

Over lunch, he shared story after story of how Babaji's grace has been guiding his life, including the story of how he met Mahavatar Babaji in person in 1993. This was before he knew anything about Mahavatar Babaji or Yogananda. Only later, when Ananda devotees gave him the book Autobiography of a Yogi, he realized that the person he met was Babaji.

Mahavir is simple, unassuming, and humble. We look forward to hearing more stories from him about instances in his life and his travels with Ananda when Babaji intervened and helped.

By late afternoon, we reached Lake resort at Naukuchia tal, where we spend the night before heading to Neem Karoli Baba's ashram and Then Babaji's cave tomorrow.

Evening energization by the Himalayan lake

This place is nestled in a verdant forest on the banks of a beautiful lake. Serene and peaceful, it is a perfect stopping point to refresh. Our evening sadhana included energization facing the lake, followed by meditation.

The chill Himalayan wind that brushes our skins as we step out is calling us to the mountains tomorrow and we cannot wait to experience more!

Guided every step of the way

The group in front of Ram Gopal’s hut. Arun on the extreme right.

After two blissful days in the city of joy (a common epithet for Kolkata), on Monday, Oct 16th, we were ready to embark on an adventure, stepping away from the city into the heartland of Bengal. Our goal was to visit the home/site where Yogananda visited and meditated with the sleepless saint, Ram Gopal Muzumdar, and also the places where the great saint mystic Ramprasad lived and worshipped Kali.

The events that unfolded on this blessed day will remain forever etched in my memory as a firsthand testimony to the presence of the Guru's grace and his guidance that echoes within and without every step of the disciple's journey.

Meditating at the spot where Yogananda and Ram Gopal meditated

Following Yogananda's guidance, we decided to bow to the stone image of Siva at the temple in Tarakeswar. The experience was very different from what we had imagined - but not in a good way! On top of the complete chaos in the temple campus, we were constantly bothered, harassed, and misguided by greedy priests who did not allow a minute's peace for any of us. We had to pay large sums of money just to relieve ourselves from their clutches and couldn't wait to get out of there after bowing to the stone image.

From the temple, we kept driving, following directions for "Ranbajpur" (a village too small to exist on google maps). As if our Guru was playing a joke on us, we stopped to ask a dozen people in the span of 45 minutes, and their response was just what Yogananda received "only a krosha". We were directed left and right on rural roads with bright green paddy fields and banana groves with the same promise, "just a little bit ahead."

Inside the hut where Ram Gopal’s family lived. Many articles used by Ram Gopal are kept in a wooden trunk here

We neared the village and stopped by a local tea shop for a cup of chai. So far no one recognized the name "Ram Gopal". We were not sure how to proceed. And right then, a man passing by stopped his motorcycle and approached us. The one Caucasian face in the group was enough clue for him. He understood what we were there for. And he was a local villager who knew where the site was!

This man was on his way to the bank. But now the masters had stopped him, and he knew his assignment. He graciously guided us and then took us by foot to the site where Ram Gopal lived. The careful orchestration of the different events that day was far beyond an accident. This kind man became our guide and shared a lot about Ram Gopal, as he was a villager that lived very close to the site. In contrast to what we had experienced with the pandits in Tarakeswar, he was genuinely kind and just wanted to help.

In the sweltering heat, we sat and meditated for 15 mins at the site of the original hut that Yogananda visited. Near the hut was another house with a thatched roof where Ram Gopal's children are said to have lived after his time.

The only picture of Ram Gopal that is available. Worship happens twice daily at this altar

As we walked around the area, our guide was also able to find and bring to us the man who had the keys to that house. He was a very impoverished and uneducated farmer named Arun. Arun looked like someone who had received no education and barely had anything to feed his family - and he was. And yet, such sincere faith and devotion exuded from this man that we were bathed in that sweetness. Again, in stark contrast to what we experienced at Tarakeswar.

Arun referred to Ram Gopal as "baba" or simply, "father". He shared stories after stories of miracles that Baba had manifested. He knew without a doubt that Baba was in charge of his life. Twice everyday, he did puja and offered prasad in front of the picture of Baba.

Undoubtedly, our meeting with Arun and everything that happened that day was through Baba's grace. No one found this site unless baba himself wanted them to - not even Yogananda, who got lost in these paddy fields. In fact, Master once told Swamiji apart from the five gurus of this lineage, the only others mentioned in the Autobiography of a yogi who are fully self-realized are Ram Gopal and Swami Pranabananda (the saint with two bodies).

We also visted two temples - one of Goddess Sheetala and another of Kali that Ramprasad had consecrated in the village. Neither have an image now. But are places of worship where clay images are made once a year for annual festivities and then dissolved.

As we headed out of the village we couldn't believe the sequence of events that unfolded that morning and the blessings that were bestowed on us.

The serene Kali temple at the site where Ramprasad lived

From there, we took many rural roads and, after many hours of driving, reached Halishahar, another small town in rural Bengal where the great saint mystic Ramprasad lived.

There was no mystery to crack here. It was simply magical to be in the grounds blessed by this great saint, who was a source of inspiration for Ramakrishna and Yogananda. Ramakrishna would go into ecstasy when he heard songs of Ramprasad. Yogananda translated one of his famous songs into english as "will that day o come to me, ma". Swami Kriyananda very often shared the story of how Kali came in the form of a young girl and playfully helped Ramprasad.

Sunset on the Ganges, at the spot where Ramprasad merged into the river

The temple of Kali at this site was serene and blissful. I sat in front of the Kali and sang many songs of Ramprsad to my heart's content. It was a surreal experience.

We enjoyed the most beautiful sunset with our feet in the Ganges river, exactly at the spot where Ramprasad entered the water with the image of Kali on the sacred day of Kali puja, and merged into the river.

The experience at this site made Kali so alive that it was even more powerful when we visited the Dakshineshwar temple the next day for the second time. We chanted and meditated in the courtyard where Master had his samadhi experience - one of my deepest meditations on this trip, so far.

On Divine Mother's Lap

Abhoya Durga (benevolent form of Durga) at the Ananda center

It is hard to imagine any other place or setting to experience in greater variety or beauty the glory of divine mother in all her forms as Durga puja in Kolkata. It is a phenomenon that is fairly impossible to explain without someone experiencing it in person.

This year, Oct 14th, was the sacred day of Mahalaya - the day when all the Gods and the positive forces in the universe gathered their energies into one, and that energy became the form of Durga, the universal mother. The spirit of Durga puja enters the air on this day, and we (Jitendra, Venkat, and I) could feel it as we stepped onto the airport that morning - an auspicious beginning to a journey filled with ma's grace.

There are numerous spiritual excursions in this holy city that have kept us busy these past few days. I won't describe each one, just in the interest of time.

Our first highlight was the concert organized at the Ananda Center in Kolkata for me to share traditional Bengali devotional music in honor of divine mother. When we met for rehearsal on the 14th, it was like meeting very dear family members we have known for years. We sang and rejoiced for a couple of hours, and the Satsang continued even after that over dinner.

The concert on Sunday (Oct 15th) evening will be one of the highlights of my life. The word "concert" can almost be misleading as it was an evening of sharing music, and also singing along, clapping and rejoicing in rapturous devotion. A very sweet local devotee played "khol, " a traditional Bengali drum used for this style of music. This genre of music is called "shyama sangeet" - or music devoted to Kali.

Almost all the songs presented were from two great bengali mystics - Ramprasad and Kamalakantha. Ramakrishna and Yogananda were deeply fond of this music. There are innumerable accounts from Ramakrishna's life of how he would enter deep states of ecstasy when he heard the songs of these two mystics, and Master was no different.

While parts of the evening were recorded it would be beyond any technology to capture the energy felt in the room. It was joyful, exuberant, and yet still and meditative. The small center room was packed way over capacity, and everyone squeezed into their cozy spots. They even hired a sound engineer at the last minute so that the speakers could carry the sound, and there were some in adjacent rooms listening to the music.

Personally, it was, for me, an incredibly fulfilling moment - to be able to sing the music my Guru grew up with and loved to an audience who knew the words to every song and relished every bit of it. It was he, who was enjoying it through each one of their ears that evening, and his love was the devotion we felt in our hearts.

A delicious and indulgent Durga puja feast followed the concert. Manash Mukherjee (the grandson of Tulsi bose) came to the concert as well and shared a number of stories of Master and his family, with the three of us over dinner.

Meditation room at Tulsi bose shrine where Master meditated throughout his boyhood

We were/are staying at the Tulsi bose shrine, and to have Manash share these stories that evening made it all the more special. Every room and relic in the house started to look different and incredibly special. To imagine how many hours Master spent meditating in the meditation room downstairs and that he was levitating and surrounded by a blue light when he was there gave us goosebumps when we returned to the room that evening.

On Tuesday evening, when we went to master's attic room at 4 Garpar road (this house is 3 mins walk from Tulsi bose shrine), we were greeted by Sarita Ghosh with the same warmth and hospitality. After a blissful hour-long meditation, we offered healing prayers for many from the room.

After that we were joyfully surprised by some of the most delicious Durga puja delicacies lovingly served by Saritaji. As we enjoyed them she treated us with many interesting and uplifting stories from master's family and her association with master - most of which I had not heard before. We were all overjoyed to have her company for so long and it was well past an hour when her doorbell rang and she went to greet a monk from YSS.

She still returned after greeting him to complete her stories (and a few more :)) before bidding us goodbye for the night. Our hearts were filled with gratitude.

With Sarita Ghosh at 4 Garpar road, where Yogananda grew up and had Samadhi

In between these visits, we were able to visit the Kali temple in Dakshineshwar a couple of times. And also visit and meditate in the sacred garden and house in a place called Cossipore where Ramakrishna spent the last months of his life and revealed to his close disciples his true form and the nature of his consciousness. These are two of the most special and powerful places in Kolkata to meditate and tune in. I will perhaps share more about these in the next post.

And, on Monday (Oct 16th) we had two very special excursions - the first one in search of the home of the sleepless saint, Ram Gopal, in very rural parts of Bengal and then driving to the village and the places where the great saint poet Ramprasad spent all his life singing to Kali. The day was filled with miracles that boggle our minds as we look back. I will save those stories for the next post.